Archives for September 2014
|my leash was caught on the camera tripod|
Yesterday morning I met Leah. She emailed me a few months ago from the contact form on this blog and asked if I’d teach her surfing. At first I was worried I was too busy and that I didn’t live anywhere near her home in Seal Beach, but she was persistent and I was persuaded. Of course, I’m so glad. She has a good energy and helped me remember how much fun it is to teach about the beginning phase of surfing. Leah is actually from Vietnam, but fell in love with surfing here in California in April. She told me she had never felt “stoked” before she tried surfing. I love that.
After my surf session with Leah, I went over to the skatepark for a minute. I met this guy named Mario. He was 53 years old and the first Skateboarding World Champ from Brazil. He could do 50-50s and ollies in the bowl. He told me I need to extend my legs and push my board above me and against the walls more when I’m skating because I’m loosing all my speed. I think it might take me a little while to understand what he meant, but I’m excited when I think about practicing it. It was kinda cool I got to teach and learn in the same morning.
Lately, I haven’t been as excited to cook. I think my tastebuds are getting a little bored with my usual recipes and concoctions and I’m thinking making foods from other parts of the world might be the solution. I should have asked Leah and Mario if they had any recipes from their home countries, but I did find the one above from my Ina Garten cookbook when I got home. It’s from the Middle East. Scott and I had it for dinner and I had the leftovers for lunch atop microwaved rice cakes with parmesan cheese and soy sauce. I know, that part’s kind of weird, but my taste buds were happy.
Rubios-casual seafood and taco grill with fresh quality, sustainable ingredients and innovative recipes.
Terrace Cafe/ Bayview Grill: Wraps, burgers, grilled tuna sandwiches, veggies burgers.
Friar Fit-fruit cups, California rolls, wraps, salads.
On Sunday we went for a swim in the hotel pool and watched our fantasy football teams lose, although the Chargers won! After meeting up with Scott’s cousin and her boyfriend for lunch we headed back towards home. Some traffic on the 5 caused us to detour right by this newly completed, but not yet opened skatepark so we climbed around the fence to check it out. I hadn’t dropped into the bowl there before, so Scott held my hand the first few times while his parents cheered me on and kept a look out. Sure enough, a security guard showed up and escorted us out just after I took my second run, closing the gate tightly behind us. After that I think I can say we’re all young at heart.
|we haven’t exactly had movie watching weather lately, so we just tie the curtains together to keep the sun out|
Lately Scott and I have been trying to have a few game nights and a few movie nights each week. Since it’s sometimes hard to find movies on Netflix without wasting almost all of your movie watching time, I thought I’d make a list of a few we really liked lately (all on your Netflix instant downloads, or your parent’s, in my case).
–Legends of the Fall (1994): “The Ludlow clan — father William and brothers Alfred, Tristan and Sam — splinters when Sam leaves to fight in World War I against his dad’s wishes.” I put this at the top of the list because I think it was my favorite out of all of these. I don’t need to say Brad Pitt is hot either, because everyone knows that. Guys included.
–Escape From Alcatraz (1979): “Lifer Frank Morris plans his unauthorized departure from Alcatraz in this thriller based on the penitentiary’s only successful jailbreak.” One of those movies that had me pacing around the living room (and it’s a true story!). I really want to go back and do the tour of Alcatraz again. Scott’s never been.
–Far & Away (1992): “Two 19th-century Irish immigrants journey to the United States for very different reasons, finding love amid the hardships they endure.” Easy to watch; Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman are really cute in this.
–Mile… Mile & a Half (2013): “A group of artists leave their daily lives behind to hike California’s John Muir Trail, the 219-mile stretch from Yosemite to Mount Whitney.”
–Fargo (1996): “When a car dealer conspires with dim-bulb criminals to kidnap his wife for a hefty ransom, a folksy — and pregnant — police chief is on the case.” Pretty violent, but with comic relief, plus I loved the snowy Mid-West setting. I can’t believe it’s based on a true story!
–Usual Suspects (1995): “When five unacquainted crooks are hauled into a police station to appear in a criminal lineup, they decide to pull off a heist together.” I fell asleep, actually, but Scott loved it. I think I was just really, really tired.
–A River Runs Through It (1992): “Director Robert Redford’s Oscar-winning, nostalgic meditation about the bonds that unite and divide families is set in Montana in the early 1900s.”
–Dogtown and Z Boys (2001): “This documentary focuses on California’s Z-Boys, who revolutionized skateboarding in the 1970s when they infused surfing techniques into the sport.” Fed my skateboarding obsession perfectly.
–Paper Moon (1973): “A con man and his precocious “daughter” grift their way across depression-era America in director Peter Bogdanovich’s nostalgic look at the 1930s.” Tatum O’Neal is hilarious playing beside her real-life dad, even though their characters have kinda of messed up values.
I’ve been taking walks at night just to clear my mind, because it’s been crowded. Recent changes such as Scott’s new job, mistakes I’ve made this week like losing my temper, disease sneaking into the lives of people I’ve always loved who have always loved me even when I wasn’t a good friend to their daughter in 7th grade; these thoughts are all in there. There are other people out walking too. Some together, some alone. Some on bikes and some smoking cigarettes watching waves.
Sometimes I run into the night. It feels so good, I don’t want my shoes on. I need my feet to feel the hardness of the ground; the warmness of it after a whole day and the small rocks and cracks and sand that make it what it is. It’s crazy how comforting the blanket of night can be when you need it. Not scary at all, but protective. Lately it’s been so hot it actually feels like the air is holding on to your skin.
I love looking in the window of this one house to see if someone who lives there is in it washing the dishes. It reminds me of how my family and I always used to drive through my Aunt and Uncle’s neighborhood on Thanksgiving to see if this family was eating dinner at their dining table by the front window. These trips were always instigated by Nonny, but everyone wanted to do it. It’s comforting knowing that there are people out there in life doing the same things.
There have been a lot of hurricanes down south lately. Those storms, like rocks dropped in the water, have been sending waves and humid weather to California for weeks.
I just keep thinking, the ocean only knows to carry on and I think humans do too.
|my mom’s list of The Four Agreements in the back cover; this copy of A New Earth is hers. I like the noets she took.
Today feels like a day with no sound. Of course, as I type this I can hear my neighbor singing. I guess that’s nice. I’m having one of those just put one foot in front of the other days and that makes it seem like all I can focus on is what’s before me and not what’s going on around.
What’s in front of me now is Eckhart Tolle’s book about ego. I’m actually finally reading it! Although, I’m surprised because he almost lost me at the start with tightly packed sentences with great meaning and short history lessons. I’m used to reading stories lately. I actually couldn’t believe I had read six whole pages when I first started and was convinced that the Table of Contents must have been numbered if I was already that far along, but I’m making my way through it: slowly, slowly, and trying to understand each line as much as I can right now.
Since I mentioned some thoughts about ego here, I thought I’d share some of the notes I took from the book so far, in case anyone is interested. Here they are:
–“The human mind is highly intelligent. Yet its very intelligence is tainted by madness.”
-“The greatest achievement of humanity is not its works of art, science or technology, but the recognition of its own dysfunction, its own madness. “
-“You do not become good by trying to be good, but by finding the goodness that is already within you, and allowing that goodness to emerge. But it can only emerge if something fundamental changes in your state of consciousness.”
-“Words, no matter whether they are vocalized and made into sounds or remain unspoken as thoughts, can cast an almost hypnotic spell upon you. You easily lose yourself in them, become hypnotized into implicitly believing that when you have attached a word to something, you know what it is. The fact is: You don’t know what it is. You have only covered up the mystery with a label. Everything, a bird, a tree, even a simple stone, and certainly a human being, is ultimately unknowable. This is because it has unfathomable depth.”
-“Of course we have to use words and thoughts. They have their own beauty–but do we need to become imprisoned in them?”
-“The greatest miracle is the experiencing of your essential self as prior to any words, thoughts, mental labels, and images.”
-“Language consists of five basic sounds produced by vocal cords…Do you believe some combination of such basic sounds could ever explain who you are, or the ultimate purpose of the universe, or even what a tree or stone is in its depth?”
p.s. don’t let that tree in the picture fool you that the temperatures around here are dropping. It was a high of 93º yesterday. I’m more worried that tree is dying of heat stroke, but I think its leaves are changing and falling prematurely because they came back extra early this year due to excessive winter sun.
have a great weekend!
p.s. wanted to let you know that if you sponsor The Tale of a Mermaid this month 20% of proceeds will go to the non-profit Mauli Ola. Contact me if you’re interested!
|I decided this board needed a new paint job.|
|Daphne’s for dinner=no camping dishes + good grinds|
|Scott thinks this looks like a dragon roaring fire 🙂|
|I think the Dakine sticker is a little crooked|
|neck beard to protect my ears from the wind (scott was very embarrassed)|
Before we left on our Oregon road trip, I perused the internet for some advice and information and came upon Travel Oregon. It’s a great resource if you’re planning to visit. I like the cute, random Oregon mascot on the bike next to the menu. I have an article on there from our trip and Scott took some pictures to go with it.
You can check it out here > > > > Wild Coast if you want < < < > > > It’s similar to the story I wrote on here, just to give you a heads up.
I decided to make myself an ice bath today after skateboarding. I know one street-style skate trick and you won’t believe that I hurt my back doing it because it is so simple.
Our bathtub had about four spiders in it that I had to wash away before I could use it. I said a prayer for them and whatever they’re onto next, then filled the tub with cold water and all the ice that was in the freezer. It looked pretty, but then the ice melted in two minutes and I basically just took a bath in 60º water.
Taking an ice bath wasn’t on my list for the day, but I should just assume that any amount of skating should be followed by some amount of hanging out with ice.
I’ve stopped putting “write post” or “write article” or anything like this on my daily agenda anymore. Now I just put “write” and if I do that, I check it off, no matter what came of it.
We have a neighbor that lives above us. I don’t know if I’ve ever mentioned that here. I can hear him now. He plays golf on his deck that is above our kitchen. I find the wiffle balls in the bushes sometimes and toss them back up. One time a bunch of shells from his patio blew down with the wind, but I didn’t throw those back because I knew they could break.
There is only a little bit of Hurricane Marie’s energy lingering in the water today, but I hear there’s more swell on the way for the weekend.
I continued my new pattern of riding a variety of boards from my quiver for the end of the swell Labor Day weekend and rode my red single fin. I fell a lot, but got a couple that felt different than any waves I’ve ridden on my other boards.
I got the Rob Machado Channel Islands single fin at Surfride the day after I threw up on Scott’s apartment floor. I am happy they’re both still around (but not the throw-up. Scott and all his roommates had to clean it up with a Dirt Devil. They still give me crap about it).
Right now I’m googling waste-of-time-things like “when is the Encinitas skatepark opening?” and wondering if summer is over simply because the feeling is gone, even if the weather hasn’t changed.
I don’t know if it’s over, but I did see a picture of a black-ball flag the other day on Instagram labeled as a “flashback” and got a little nostalgic, even though I’ve never been fond of any symbol signifying a block on surfing. In my head I’m thinking of September as a summer hangover month because you’re kind of still recovering from all that summer was and wondering in a hazy, unknowing kind of way what will be next.
“Summer means many different things to different people. To some it might mean the thrill of a high speed catamaran. Others like to float around and soak up a few stray rays. Still others like some kind of inland activity. But for us, it’s the sport of surfing.” – Endless Summer