This morning I spent approximately 20 minutes reading Surfer magazine in bed before doing anything else. I usually get up and make Scott’s lunch (PB and J everyday), but on Wednesdays he has half day and comes home for lunch while I work from home. So there I stayed in bed and in my pajamas until it felt like time to surf. I’m predicting socks weather any morning now, but I was happy to walk barefoot to the beach for at least another day.
When I got there, it was apparent the wind had beat me by a few hours. I think it made its way around the whole county before sunrise. West winds too, not the eastern ones that blow the tops off of waves and make you feel like you’re in a surf movie or under a magical spell. This didn’t matter to me, though. I like a good variety in my surf sessions and some wind-blown unpredictable mushburgers feed my surf craving just as well as some glassy five footers do some days. The best part is, nearly no one was out and this might be my favorite surf condition of all (right behind surfing with family and close friends, of course). Somedays you just need the solitude a solo session can bring and today was that day for me.
I wore my 2/2mm spring suit for what might be one of the last times this year. Even though the water didn’t have a wintery bite, it was sure starting to cool down. Kinda like someone had dropped a few ice cubes into the pacific over night. Seaweed strands were wrapping around my legs and leash like ribbons do around a little girl’s pony tail. I swear my shadow seemed darker too, although I think that’s only because the sun was so bright overhead. I couldn’t see it as I made my way over the ridges and bumps in the wave’s faces, but I knew it was back there following me as I sailed towards the sun.
Sitting in the ocean really makes me feel the change in the seasons. Southern California’s are pretty subtle, but out in the water I feel they are unmistakable. I feel like a little seasonal thermometer soaking out there, deciding with my bare legs if it’s really fall or not. My legs said it was fall today and the deserted beach and lack of airplane ads said it was the start of the off season; which is my favorite one of all to be a surfer.
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