1. what year is it?
2. Scott flying
3. This guy actually dropped in on Scott, but Scott got around him. He didn’t have the best morning session.
4. I’m stoked on my new Firewire! It’s the Dominator model.
6. I’m riding it here as a quad. Did I mention I love it?
8. Snooze button
10. High tide
11. Fire and water, he loves that.
12. Dinner was easy
13. I’m not this kid, but I am.
We spent Friday camping out at San-O as a pre anniversary celebration. It’s where we got engaged over 3 years ago (feels weird writing that).
I was sitting at camp, sun half in the clouds, half in the blue sky, listening to a Jack Johnson cover of a Slightly Stoopid song and thinking all the most random things… About how some of my teachers never really meant to label me as anything, they just meant to guide me. At least that’s how it seems now. I was thinking what a weird thing surfing is. I’ve never really realized that before. It just seems like something that has always been there, but I never really examined it as if I were an onlooker beholding it for the first time. What a crazy thing riding on water is. I’m so glad it is a part of my life.
Scott was in the tent sleeping while all of this day dreaming was going on. I thought about telling him “You should come out here,” but then I thought I shouldn’t. We should both just do whatever it is we want. And that’s kind of how the mid afternoon went. And that’s kind of exactly what we needed then.
In the late afternoon, we surfed right in front of the camp. Longboarders were everywhere. In fact, Scott was one of them. But I got a few and Scott got a few I figured he might always remember. They were real memorable; tall waves with big open faces and a gradually falling white wash that trailed behind him like a side kick. I focused on making the fat sections, sliding my tail on the end sections and avoiding impaling any of the beginners practicing their own things on the inside. We planned to catch only two waves, but we ended up staying out for an hour and a half.
In the evening, as the sunset seemed to light the sky on fire, we made soup and potatoes as the ocean arranged herself around us on the high tide, forcing us to eat with our feet up on the firepit. And that’s kind of how the evening went. And that’s kind of exactly what we needed too.
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