This is a poem I wrote last year. I submitted it to a surf magazine for their current winter issue and, although it was meant to be in there, it wasn’t. Such is life, right? And this is part of my story.
The pictures were taken by Scott and I of each other as well as some of our favorite local surfers. Somehow, winter is my favorite surf season of all. Even with the excess neoprene and ice cream headaches.