The other day I surfed this spot in Ventura called Emma Wood. Mostly, I surfed like crap and all these groms kept taking waves from me. Then I got this good one Scott took pictures of. Then I fell on a closeout left that wedged up in front of me and knocked me head first off my board. I was eating sand. It tasted like fish and salt and dirt. The next morning I woke up with a sore neck and couldn’t get out of bed.
I’m mostly feeling better now.
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