This week has been weightlessly wonderful and overwhelmingly heavy all at the same time.
I had this dream last night where I was in my own little cove surfing warm turquoise waves that broke perfectly over and over again. I was by myself, but I felt like someone was watching me, even though I couldn’t see who. The place reminded me of Never Never Land, where nothing ever changed. Sometimes I think I’d be ok with that, even though I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t.
Am I being obscure enough? Don’t worry, (not that you were), I will tell the real story later.
Until then, here is a video Scott and I spent some time making this week. The waves in it remind me of the ones from that dream.
A little background:
Scott hand-shaped and glassed this board for me in the spring of 2009 as a surprise for my birthday. It is a very flat board that goes fast, with a big tail that glides through turns (when I surf it right, of course). It has no leash and I have to swim to get it more often than I’d like to admit. But it’s good. A fall here and there keeps me on my toes and reminds me that I’m not incapable of mistakes.
Of all the boards I own, I couldn’t live without this one. It was made with love.
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