If you made sure to ignore all of life’s challenges, you may go through it without ever falling, but in doing so you accept that flying will always be absent from your reality.
My board and I rise to greet the lip. My head turns to spot the landing as my arms turn to the beach. My heart wants to me to turn harder. My heart wants to test my body to see what I am made of. My head wants my body to complete the turn without falling. I listen to my head. The turn is a success, or is it?