This past week the waves were as good as waves get. Scott and I tried to take advantage of every minute of it by surfing two or three hours each day the swell greeted us. But you know what? I enjoyed surfing more today when it was onshore and three feet. Don’t get me wrong, I like good waves, but I love empty waves that give me an opportunity for escape and reflection. I love surfing knee high side-shore wind swell waves because the main reason I surf is to unlock my undiscovered thoughts. I love to have time out in the ocean to contemplate instead of battling for every wave. More than anything else, surfing fulfills my life best when it allows me to connect with the ocean and myself.
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