At this point in the trip I had lost track of the date. I couldn’t remember how long it has been since I’d gone a day without recording it in some form. I was beginning to feel like the dreams I had as a child were going to stay in the past, but this trip contradicted that completely. My dreams of exploring an island without restraint, climbing rocks and riding unknown waves were being realized.
We didn’t even know if this was a surf spot, but on this swell it became one. After watching the wave break for about half an hour. I casually mentioned that I think I’d like to come back tomorrow and check it out, but that tonight I was going to take it easy. “I’m going” Scott responded. Ugh! My heart disagreed with my mind. I knew this meant that I was going too. Not because he would ever force me, I just knew in my heart I couldn’t pass up this opportunity to surf an unknown wave.
I just wanted to awaken my daydreams where I was a reckless adventurer instead of a boring adult. I wanted to play and roam free. Surfing allows me to do exactly this so it seemed appropriate to use it as a means to achieve these feelings daily. As I would soon find out, it shouldn’t, however, be the only way.