Archives for April 2010
My Neighborhood in the Winter
Some waves from my neighborhood in the Winter. Music: Arcade Fire, Song: Neighborhood #1 (Tunnels), Filming: Jared A. Muscat, Patty & Frank Holloway, Jason Ricketts, Scott DeMint and Bob Edwards, Scenic Shots: Devon Holloway, Editing: Devon Holloway
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It’s been one year since I started the Mermaid Chronicle. I’m not writing this entry to emphasize the fact that it is the anniversary of this site, but rather to acknowledge and honor the reason it was originally created.
As I was laying on my board this morning in between sets I kept looking around and smiling at the beauty that surrounded me. I rolled off my board into the water and felt its saltiness on my face and body. I let its coolness awaken me. I let its smell revitalize me.
I thought back to my past as I enjoyed this beautiful moment. This is a moment I may not have had a few years ago. I used to be so closed minded about surfing. All I wanted was to get better at it. I took every session as an opportunity to push my surfing forward. It’s not that I don’t do this now. Progression is still my main motivation to get out in the water most days. I am also motivated, however, to get out and enjoy the ocean for all its remarkable qualities. To celebrate the new life it has given to me. If I am not making every turn or every section these days I find that I am not disturbed, but inquisitive. I look into the sea for other ways to stimulate me. I let the ocean speak to me and impress upon me.
Now that I am listening, I hear that there is so much more to my surfing life than committed off-the-lips. I could never understand this before. I never saw the formations the white wash bubbles made after a wave breaks. I never paid any attention to patterns in the sand. I saw the exposed reef in the winter time as only an opportunity for me to better my own surfing, to get better waves and a better buzz from surfing well. Today when I look at the exposed reef I see a message that was sent to me to gain more understanding about the most magical and mysterious place I have ever been. I am so fortunate to get to visit this place daily for I am not only able to learn something new about the sea each day, but the sea teachers me new things about myself. These teachings travel with me onto land as I try to become a better person.
The one year anniversary of this site is important not because it is a time to celebrate and promote a product I have created here on the world wide web, but to honor a time when I finally started to listen to the sea and share my tales.
I don’t let surfing torture my spirit any longer. Life on land can do enough of that. Surfing is an escape from these stresses. The only goal I have as my feet touch the water these days is to enjoy the time I spend out there. It’s not always easy and I definitely have some room to improve upon this practice, but it is always worth while.
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