The water has been unbearably cold around here! I know it’s Winter and all but for the water to be 53 degrees (fahrenheit) in San Diego in early December is a little shocking. Booties, a full hood and gloves are all becoming a part of my current surf attire. Fortunately with the Winter water comes the Winter swells. We had some nice waves this week from a WNW swell. Above is a picture of me surfing by my house at a spot I call Tikis. It was really good this week. A fast steep takeoff onto fat walls. Surfing in all this gear though is really cramping my style. I look like a ninja, but I feel like a snowman! I’m really craving some warm water waves and fortunately this Winter I get to satisfy this craving. I’ll tell you more about it next time. Until then, happy surfing!
Archives for 2010
Away from my neighborhood the waves are unfamiliar, but exciting. Today now seems more dramatic than other days. It diverges from yesterday.
Sometimes I sickly miss that feeling of searching for something to do with my time. Now that I have fallen into adulthood, whatever that truly means, I feel I am seeking an absence of routine and predictability so that my mind can wander to undiscovered places.
This Summer I have been fortunate enough to take three weeks away from my job as a preschool teacher. With this time my plan is strictly to daydream and then forge plans to chase and catch these dreams. Boredom now suddenly seems like a beautiful word. For in moments where you search for something to do with your time, you can take yourself to a place outside of ordinary existence. That is why the trip I am about to take is a wander in wonderland.
At this point in the trip I had lost track of the date. I couldn’t remember how long it has been since I’d gone a day without recording it in some form. I was beginning to feel like the dreams I had as a child were going to stay in the past, but this trip contradicted that completely. My dreams of exploring an island without restraint, climbing rocks and riding unknown waves were being realized.
We didn’t even know if this was a surf spot, but on this swell it became one. After watching the wave break for about half an hour. I casually mentioned that I think I’d like to come back tomorrow and check it out, but that tonight I was going to take it easy. “I’m going” Scott responded. Ugh! My heart disagreed with my mind. I knew this meant that I was going too. Not because he would ever force me, I just knew in my heart I couldn’t pass up this opportunity to surf an unknown wave.