As much as I enjoy the warm and inviting summer waters of my home in San Diego, California, I felt as though I could use some time away from the crowds and commotion to reconnect with the sea and explore another area. It’s not that I don’t love surfing at home, I couldn’t love it more. I just started to get the itch to travel and surf somewhere where I could listen to the sound of waves instead of the hum of planes towing Bud Light ads. California’s offshore islands seemed to be the perfect place! My Dad, Scott and I arrived just at the end of the big summer south swell and were greeted by clean waist to chest high waves for our entire trip.
While at sea I found myself imagining wonderful scenarios of being one of the first people to discover the islands and the waves, and, at some moments, it felt as though it could have been true as we were occasionally the only souls around for miles.
In the mornings the air was crisp and fog would fill the crevasses of the island cliffs. Our first morning we surfed by ourselves for 2 hours. After our session and breakfast, company began to surround our boat. I was trying to take a nap when all I could hear was my Dad and Scott talking about how many boats were arriving around ours. “My solitude! My waves!”, I thought. Without further adieu I pulled my wetsuit from the engine room and grabbed my board before the crowd got too large. Luckily the crowd was only Tom Curren and his sons. I got my wave of the day as Tom Curren was paddling up the face, although I doubt he was very dazzled :). We barbequed chicken that night with a lemon soy sauce marinade. It was delicious! The next day we surfed another uncrowded session with the three of us and one other guy. It was howling offshore, somehow, and epic. I practiced getting barreled on the more hollow ones. The sound of water falling all around me was exactly the sound I had left in search of and I won’t soon forget it. Although I was bummed to return home yesterday to knee high wind blown waves, my body needed the break anyway. I felt so rejuvenated after my journey to solitude that I immediately began dreaming about my next getaway…
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